Pakleni islands — Split's island escape just minutes from Hvar

The Pakleni Islands deliver what Hvar town promises but can rarely deliver in midsummer: crystal-clear water, pine-shaded coves, and a genuine sense of arrival at somewhere unspoiled. This uninhabited archipelago of fourteen islands curves southwest of Hvar town — close enough to reach by water taxi in ten minutes, far enough to filter out the selfie-stick crowds.

What the Pakleni islands actually are

Pakleni is often mistranslated as “hellish” — pakao means hell in Croatian — but the name derives from pakal, the tar historically harvested here to seal boat hulls. There is nothing hellish about them. The islands are low, forested with Aleppo pines, and ringed with white-pebble and rock beaches that shelve quickly into water ranging from emerald to deep blue.

The main settlements are tiny: Palmižana (also called Sv. Clement, the largest island) has a restaurant, a small gallery-hotel, and a handful of moorings. Stipanska has a beach bar popular with charter crews. Vlaka, Zdrilca, and Dubovica are favoured by those arriving by kayak or private tender looking to anchor away from anyone else.

Most visitors reach the islands as part of an organised boat tour departing Split — which makes sense, because you combine the transit across to Hvar with a guided snorkelling stop and a beach lunch rather than paying for a Jadrolinija catamaran plus a water taxi plus a meal separately.

Blue Cave, Hvar and Pakleni speedboat tour from Split

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Getting here from Split

Organised tour (easiest): Most full-day speedboat tours from Split include Pakleni as a swimming stop on their way back from Hvar or the Blue Cave. The 10–10.5-hour format is standard; prices run €70–90 per person depending on whether lunch is included. This is the most practical option if you are visiting the islands for the first time.

Independent route: Take a Jadrolinija catamaran from Split to Hvar town (50 minutes, €8–11 depending on season). From Hvar harbour, water taxis depart regularly for Palmižana (€3–5 per person one way). Last water taxis back to Hvar usually leave around 18:00–19:00 in summer — confirm before you go.

By kayak: Sea kayak tours from Split occasionally route through Pakleni after an overnight on Hvar. Check guides at Hvar’s harbour front for single-day kayak rental (€20–30).

The best beaches and coves

Palmižana (Vinogradišće): The most visited beach on the islands, fronting the restaurant of the same name. Pebble underfoot, good depth for swimming, convenient but crowded from 10:00 to 15:00 in July and August. The Palmižana restaurant — family-run since 1906 — serves grilled fish, octopus salad, and cold Pošip wine at €18–28 per main; a full lunch runs €35–50 with wine.

Stipanska: Slightly east of Palmižana, reachable by a short walk or by water taxi. More exposed to afternoon wind but popular with the sailing crowd. Beach bar onsite.

Zdrilca and Vlaka: Quieter coves on the west and northwest of Sveti Klement that you realistically only reach by boat or kayak. When the morning tours finish their snorkelling stops, these bays can be almost empty by 14:00.

Dubovica: Technically on the south coast of Hvar island rather than the Pakleni chain itself, this south-facing cove is sheltered in northerly wind, strikingly clear, and reachable on foot (25-minute walk from the road above). One of the finest swimming spots on the Hvar coast.

Snorkelling in the Pakleni islands

Visibility in late spring and early autumn regularly reaches 15–20 metres. Rocky points between coves hold sea urchins, grouper, and on occasion octopus in the shallower sections. The channel between Marinkovac and Sveti Klement concentrates interesting marine life. Most organised tours provide masks and fins — if not, rent them from dive shops in Hvar town for €10–15.

Hvar, Brač and Pakleni cruise with lunch from Split

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Pairing Pakleni with a wider island day

The Pakleni islands work best as the afternoon swimming segment of a day that starts with Hvar town in the morning. Spend 90 minutes walking Hvar’s Fortica fortress (€15 entry, sweeping views of the archipelago), have a late coffee on the Pjaca, and then take the water taxi across for lunch at Palmižana and an afternoon swim.

Alternatively, a full-day multi-island tour from Split — covering Blue Cave on Biševo, Vis, Hvar town, and Pakleni — is a legitimate way to see a lot in one shot. Just know that by 14:00 the speedboat is full of tired, sun-burned passengers and the stops get shorter.

For a slower version: combine Pakleni with Bol and Zlatni Rat on Brač over two separate days using the Jadrolinija network out of Split, staying overnight in Hvar to actually experience the islands after the day-trippers leave.

Honest notes for planning

Crowds peak between 11:00 and 15:00. If you arrive at Palmižana before 09:30 or after 15:30, you have a fundamentally different experience. The tour boats dock together in the middle of the day.

The “five-island” and “six-island” tour labels are marketing. Some tours count each water stop and photo pass as a separate island. What matters is how much swimming time you get — ask specifically.

There is no drinkable fresh water on the islands. Bring at least 2 litres per person. Palmižana restaurant has bottled water and drinks, but at restaurant prices (€4–6 per bottle).

September is measurably better. Sea temperature in September is 24°C — identical to August. The water taxis still run. The boats are 40–50% less crowded. The Palmižana restaurant is still open. Prices on Hvar drop by 25–30%. This is the recommendation from anyone who has been in both months.

Sailing the Pakleni islands

The Pakleni archipelago is one of the most popular sailing destinations in the Adriatic for good reason: protected anchorages, consistent afternoon winds (usually from the northwest), and the ability to hop between bays without covering large distances. Charter crews base out of Hvar ACI marina and day-sail the islands on a standard half-day passage.

If a full sailing charter is beyond budget, several operators in Hvar town offer half-day shared sailing tours specifically in the Pakleni channel (€40–60 per person). The sailing guide for the Adriatic covers the logistics of chartering from Split if that is the direction you are heading.

Hvar, Pakleni, Brač and Šolta all-inclusive tour from Split

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Frequently asked questions about the Pakleni islands

How do I get to the Pakleni islands from Split?

The most direct route is a catamaran from Split to Hvar (50 minutes, €8–11), then a water taxi from Hvar harbour to Palmižana (10 minutes, €3–5 one way). Most visitors, however, join a speedboat or catamaran day tour from Split that includes Pakleni as a swimming stop — combining transport, guide, and often lunch into one price.

Is entry to the Pakleni islands free?

Yes. There is no entrance fee to the islands themselves. You pay for water taxi transport to get there, and for anything you eat or drink once on the islands.

What is the best time to visit the Pakleni islands?

May, June, and September offer warm water (20–24°C in May–June, 24–25°C in September), dramatically fewer boats, and lower prices on Hvar. July and August are peak season: the water is warm but the coves are crowded and accommodation on Hvar can cost 40–60% more.

Can I swim at the Pakleni islands?

Absolutely — swimming is the main reason to visit. The water is clear and generally safe. Most coves shelve quickly so be prepared for depth. Watch for boat traffic in channels near Palmižana.

Do I need a car to visit the Pakleni islands?

No. The ferry to Hvar and the water taxi system are the only transport you need. Cars are not useful on the islands themselves and are not brought across on the Hvar catamaran for day trips.

What should I eat at Palmižana?

The Meneghello restaurant at Palmižana is the main option on the islands. Grilled fish, octopus salad, and local white wine (Pošip from Korčula) are the specialities. Budget €35–50 per person for a full lunch. More economical: bring a picnic from a Hvar supermarket before crossing.

Are the Pakleni islands suitable for children?

Yes, with the right age. The water taxis are small open boats — fine for children who are comfortable on water. The beaches are pebbly rather than sandy, so water shoes help. Most coves have calm, clear water that is excellent for snorkelling with kids aged 8 and up.

Accommodation on the Pakleni islands

There is no large hotel on the Pakleni archipelago — accommodation is deliberately sparse, which is part of the appeal. Meneghello on Palmižana (also written as Villa Meneghello) is the main property: a family-run complex of stone bungalows and apartments in the pine forest above the beach, operating since 1906. Rates in peak season run €130–250 per night for a studio; book well ahead for July and August. The appeal is total simplicity — no cars, no noise, no formal check-in — and total isolation from the mainland hotel world.

A handful of smaller apartments can be found on booking platforms for Hvar island residents who rent cottages on the outer islands. These are rare but available for longer stays.

Day visitors: The overwhelming majority of visitors come for the day from Hvar town or as part of a Split boat tour. There is no requirement to stay overnight, and the day experience is complete in itself.

What the Pakleni islands look like in each season

April–May: The sea is 18–20°C — cold for swimming without a wetsuit but beautiful for sailing and snorkelling in a light drysuit. The pine forest is vivid green, the water is exceptionally clear (winter rains have flushed the sea), and the water taxis and beach bars are opening for the season. This is the best time for photography and sailing, the worst for sunbathing.

June–early July: The peak-quality window. Sea temperature reaches 22–24°C — swimmable in a one-piece or shorts. The tour boats from Split have started running but the coves are not yet overwhelmed. Palmižana is pleasant; the quieter coves on the west of Sveti Klement are genuinely tranquil. All services are open.

Late July–August: The peak-season reality. Water temperature 26°C, sun intense. Palmižana bay has 20–30 boats anchored simultaneously at the peak of the day. The water taxis from Hvar run every 30 minutes. The beach bars are at full capacity. Beautiful if you embrace the energy; not the escape the name suggests.

September: The recommendation from anyone who has been in both months. Boat numbers down 40–50% from August. The charter yachts are largely gone (summer charter season ends in late August). Sea temperature 24–25°C. The Meneghello restaurant is still open. The pine forest begins to show its autumn character — the light turns amber by late afternoon.

October: Sailing season extends to mid-October; the water is 22°C. Most beach bars and restaurants are closed by mid-October. The water taxis run a reduced schedule. For sailors with private boats, October in the Pakleni is a genuine highlight.

Wildlife and marine life around the islands

The Pakleni archipelago is part of the broader Hvar marine ecosystem, which includes healthy populations of Adriatic fish species in the channels between islands. Snorkelling from the rocky shorelines reveals:

• Octopus in rocky crevices at 2–5 metres — common and typically unbothered by snorkellers
• Scorpionfish (rascasse) camouflaged against rock — beautiful to photograph, unpleasant to step on; wear water shoes
• Comber, gilt-head bream, and wrasse around the rocky points where algae grows
• Sea urchins on every rocky surface — again, water shoes prevent a painful incident

Dolphins are occasionally sighted in the channels between the outer Pakleni islands and Vis, but this is serendipitous rather than guaranteed. The Adriatic population of common dolphins (Delphinus delphis) uses the deep channels; sightings from speedboats are the most common format.

Nightlife and evening options on the islands

The Pakleni islands have a few beach bars that operate from June through September, but this is not Hvar’s nightlife scene. Carpe Diem Beach on Stipanska island is the most notable evening venue — an extension of the famous Carpe Diem bar in Hvar town, reached by party boat from Hvar harbour (€20 return, hourly service in summer evenings). Music runs until midnight; the crowd skews younger and the drinks prices are Hvar-level (€8–15 for cocktails).

For those who prefer their island evenings quiet, Palmižana has the Meneghello terrace for dinner (last service around 21:00 in summer) and very little else. The water taxis from Hvar to Palmižana stop running at dusk unless you make private arrangements — the island reverts to the sounds of pine trees and water.

Practical gear for the Pakleni islands

Water shoes: Essential. The beaches are pebble, the swimming entry points are often rocky shelves, and the underwater terrain is uneven.

Snorkel kit: Bring your own or rent from Hvar harbour dive shops (€10–15 per day). Visibility in the channels regularly exceeds 15 metres.

Sunscreen: The boat journey, the open coves, and the pebble beach reflect significant UV. High SPF (50+) and reapplication after swimming.

Cash: The water taxis are cash only. The beach bars generally accept cards but smaller vendors at the beach do not.

Water: The islands have no fresh water supply. Bring 2 litres per person minimum. More in July and August when heat is intense.

Dry bag: For phones and valuables during the boat crossing, especially on speedboats where spray is significant.

Planning your Pakleni islands visit

The Pakleni islands sit naturally in a broader island-hopping plan from Split. If you are building a week around Split, Hvar and the Pakleni archipelago together warrant a full day — see the 5-day island-hopping itinerary for a suggested sequence. Blue Cave on Biševo and the beaches on Brač are the other natural complements if you have more days to spend at sea.

The which Dalmatian island guide helps you decide whether the Pakleni islands suit your travel style better than a day on Vis or Korčula.

Blue Cave, Hvar and 5 islands boat tour from Split

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