How do you get to the Pakleni Islands from Hvar?

Water taxis leave from Hvar Town harbour throughout the day in season, reaching the main spots in 15-20 minutes for around €4-6 per person each way. The last taxis return around 6-7pm. There are no regular public ferries — it's water taxis, private boats, or joining an organized sailing or cruise tour from Split or Hvar.

Pakleni Islands sailing and snorkeling guide

A string of islets just offshore — and why most visitors miss them

The Pakleni Islands are one of the most consistent disappointments of Dalmatian tourism, but not in the way you might think. The disappointment is that so many visitors spend time in Hvar Town without ever realising that a 15-minute water taxi ride puts them in one of the best sailing and swimming environments on the Adriatic. The islands are right there — visible from the Hvar promenade — but because there is no car ferry and no obvious infrastructure, many people never make the crossing.

That is largely to the benefit of those who do. The Pakleni Islands (Paklinski otoci in Croatian, sometimes translated as “Islands of Hell” from the word for pine resin that was harvested here historically) are not one island but an archipelago of 21 islets and reefs stretching roughly 10 km westward from Hvar Town. They range from tiny reefs that barely break the surface to Sveti Klement, the largest, which has a restaurant, a nudist beach, and enough size to walk around over an hour or two. The water between and around the islands is extraordinarily clear, the anchorages are sheltered, and the snorkeling — over rock and seagrass beds — is some of the best accessible without diving equipment on the Croatian coast.

The main islands: what each one offers

The Pakleni archipelago has several distinct stops, each with a different character.

Palmizana is the most-visited stop, located on the island of Sveti Klement. The cove at Palmizana has a restaurant (Meneghello) that has been operating since the 1960s, a small sandy beach, a nudist section, and calm, clear water. The restaurant is surrounded by a botanical garden established by the founding family — subtropical plants that have grown for decades into an unusual coastal jungle. Palmizana operates like a small self-contained resort without any accommodation pressure: you arrive by water taxi or boat, swim, have lunch, and leave. The anchorage in front is always full of yachts in peak season.

Stipanska is a smaller islet with a shingle beach and a basic beach bar in season. It is slightly quieter than Palmizana and the water is excellent. The seagrass beds around Stipanska are good for snorkeling, with occasional octopus and sea bream visible at rocky edges.

Mlini and Marinkovac are popular swimming stops, particularly for the Carpe Diem Beach club on Marinkovac — a daytime-into-evening bar that draws a younger crowd from Hvar Town. It is not quiet. If you want the character of the Pakleni Islands without a party bar soundtrack, go earlier in the day or choose Palmizana or Stipanska instead.

Vlaka and smaller islets further west see fewer visitors and have less infrastructure, which for some travellers is the point. Boats with their own anchor can find quiet spots throughout the day.

Getting to the Pakleni Islands

There are three realistic ways to reach the islands:

Water taxi from Hvar Town harbour. This is the standard option for independent travellers. Water taxis depart from the main harbour throughout the day in season — they are small wooden boats that can carry 8-12 passengers, and they run on demand rather than a fixed schedule. The fare to Palmizana is typically €4-6 per person each way, and the crossing takes 15-20 minutes. The last taxis usually return around 6-7pm, which is important if you plan to spend the day. Outside of July and August, water taxis are less frequent — confirm availability in June, September, and October.

Private or rented boat. Many visitors rent a small motor boat in Hvar Town and navigate to the islands independently. No licence is required for boats under a certain engine size (the rental company will specify what applies). This gives you the flexibility to anchor where you like, snorkel wherever looks good, and return on your own schedule. Half-day rental costs around €80-120 for a basic motor boat depending on engine size and season.

Organised sailing or cruise tour from Split or Hvar. Several boat tours departing from Split include the Pakleni Islands as one stop in a multi-island day. This is a good option if you want someone else to handle navigation and if you’re combining the islands with Brač, Šolta, or Hvar Town in the same day: Split: Hvar, Brač, and Pakleni Cruise with Lunch and Drinks is a full-day cruise from Split that includes Hvar, Brač, and the Pakleni Islands with lunch aboard. The all-inclusive version, Split: Hvar, Pakleni, Brač & Šolta All-Inclusive Tour , also includes food and drinks throughout the day.

For a half-day departure from Split with a wine tasting component, Split: Half Day Sailing Tour with Swim Stop, Snacks and Wine covers the Pakleni Islands and includes Croatian wine tasting on board — a good option if you want sailing atmosphere without a full-day commitment.

For groups who want to base from Milna on Brač and have the Pakleni Islands as a primary destination, From Split: Brač, Hvar, & Pakleni Islands Private Boat Tour is a private charter option with more flexibility on timing.

Snorkeling in the Pakleni Islands: what to bring and where to go

Snorkeling in the Pakleni Islands is rewarding without being spectacular — you will see good volumes of fish, some interesting rock formations, and occasional larger creatures, but this is not the Caribbean. The seagrass (Posidonia) beds around the islands support a healthy ecosystem and are protected; snorkeling above them is allowed, but anchoring in them is not. The Posidonia meadows are also a visibility indicator — they only grow in clean water.

The best snorkeling spots are:

Around the rocky edges of Stipanska, particularly on the western side where the rock drops into deeper water
The narrow channel between Palmizana and the adjacent islet, where current brings nutrients and concentrates fish
The outer (western) coast of Sveti Klement, where the rock goes deeper and you are more likely to encounter larger fish
Around any moored boat — small fish congregate around hulls and anchor chains

What to bring: mask and snorkel (rental is available in Hvar Town but the quality is variable — bringing your own is worth it for a week-long trip), water shoes for rocky entries, sunscreen that is mineral-based rather than chemical (chemical sunscreen is harmful to Posidonia and marine life; some areas have signage about this), and enough water for the day since options are limited on smaller islets.

Visibility in the Pakleni Islands is typically 10-20 metres depending on conditions — considerably better than most Mediterranean snorkeling. The water is coldest in early June (around 20°C) and warmest in August-September (around 25-27°C).

Sailing around the Pakleni Islands: what makes them good for boats

The Pakleni Islands are one of the most popular sailing areas on the Croatian coast, for consistent reasons. The anchorages are numerous and well-sheltered from the dominant northwest wind (maestral). The distance from Hvar Town is short enough that you can be anchored and swimming in under an hour of departure. And the visual character of the islands — pine-covered hillsides dropping to clear water — is consistently good.

Most sailing itineraries that start from Split, Trogir, or Hvar include at least one night anchored in the Pakleni Islands. Palmizana is the most popular anchorage — it can hold a substantial number of yachts and has mooring buoys in the inner cove, though in peak season these fill early in the afternoon. Arriving by 2-3pm to secure a buoy is advisable in July-August. Anchoring outside the main cove in the bay is an alternative if the buoys are taken.

The passage around the western tip of the Pakleni Islands and into the open sea toward Šolta or Brač is straightforward in settled conditions but can be rough when the bura (northeast wind) blows. Most charter sailors in the area have some sailing experience; the islands are not particularly demanding, but the open water passages require appropriate conditions.

For a longer sailing experience in the area, the Adriatic sailing guide covers the broader context of sailing the Dalmatian islands, including weather patterns, marina logistics, and route planning.

Palmizana restaurant and the Meneghello family

The Meneghello family established themselves at Palmizana in the early 20th century, and the restaurant has been a destination for sailors and visitors since the 1960s. The current operation runs from June through September and serves Croatian coastal food — grilled fish, seafood, local wines — in a setting of overgrown subtropical garden, driftwood furniture, and a cove that looks like it was designed for afternoon dining.

The food is good rather than outstanding, and the prices reflect the setting and the captive audience (water taxis are the only alternative to swimming back). Expect €20-35 for a main course. The wine list includes local producers from Hvar and the broader Dalmatian region. The atmosphere — eating at a wooden table with boats swinging in the cove, surrounded by plants that have been growing for a century — is genuinely pleasant.

Booking is not usually required for lunch, but the restaurant fills by early afternoon in peak season. If you arrive by 12:30pm, you will generally find a table. The garden section has both sun and shade; ask for shade if the midday heat is strong.

The nudist section at Palmizana

The nudist beach (FKK) at Palmizana is a small rocky section slightly separated from the main beach. Nudism is legal and unremarkable in Croatia, and the Pakleni Islands have a tradition of naturist tourism. The section is not large — perhaps 30 people at capacity — and is on the western side of the Palmizana cove. There is no formal segregation; the textiles beach grades into the naturist section. Both coexist without friction.

If nudism is not your preference, the main pebble-and-rock beach area at Palmizana is well separated and there is no pressure or awkwardness. Visitors arrive for both, and neither group pays the other much attention.

What to do in Hvar Town before or after the Pakleni Islands

The Pakleni Islands pair naturally with time in Hvar Town — you take the morning water taxi out, spend the day swimming and having lunch, and return for the Hvar Town evening, which has a well-established café and bar culture centred on the main square (pjaca) and the waterfront.

Hvar Town is the most developed tourist destination in Dalmatia after Dubrovnik. The Old Town walls, the Venetian Loggia and Arsenal, and the fortress (Fortica) above the town are all worth seeing. The Hula-Hula beach bar on the western bay is the most-photographed sunset spot in Hvar, with a terrace that gets very busy from about 5pm onwards.

For a full guide to Hvar including restaurants, the old town, and what to do beyond the Pakleni Islands, the Hvar island guide covers everything in detail. For a comparison of Hvar against Brač and Vis by traveller type, the Dalmatian island decision guide is a useful starting point.

Combining the Pakleni Islands with a multi-island day

The Pakleni Islands work well as one component of a multi-island day from Split, since they are close to Hvar and can be slotted between other stops efficiently. Several organised boat tours make this combination:

A full-day cruise combining Brač, Hvar, and the Pakleni Islands gives you a substantial experience of the central Dalmatian island group without requiring you to stay overnight anywhere. The boat typically anchors in Palmizana for a 1.5-2 hour stop — enough time to swim, have a drink at the restaurant, and snorkel — before continuing.

The five island tour guide covers the standard Split day tour that includes the Pakleni Islands alongside Blue Cave, Vis, and Hvar. The best day trips from Split guide also places the Pakleni Islands in context alongside the other major day trip options. It is the most popular organised day trip from Split and includes the Pakleni stop in a well-paced itinerary.

If you are planning a multi-day island itinerary rather than day trips, the island hopping from Split guide gives a structure for building your own sequence. The 5-day island hopping itinerary includes a dedicated Pakleni Islands night as part of a broader Dalmatia route.

Practical details for the Pakleni Islands

Water taxi schedule: Runs throughout the day from Hvar Town harbour in season (June-September). First taxis around 9am, last return around 6-7pm. Frequency is higher in July-August. Off-season, confirm availability before planning your day around them.

What to bring: Water (limited options on smaller islets), sunscreen, snorkel gear, cash (water taxis are cash-only), food if you’re not eating at Palmizana restaurant.

Swimming conditions: Very good throughout the season. Water temperature 20-22°C in June, 24-27°C in July-August-September. Sea is almost always calm within the island group since it is sheltered from the north by Hvar.

Crowds: Palmizana is crowded in July and August — there is no way around this. Smaller islets like Stipanska are noticeably quieter. Arriving early (first water taxi, around 9am) means you have Palmizana beach largely to yourself before the midday rush.

Cost summary for a day trip: Return water taxi from Hvar (~~€10), lunch at Palmizana (~~€25-35), drinks (~€10-15). Total around €50-60 per person for a comfortable day. Snorkel rental in Hvar if needed: €10-15. No entry fee for any of the islands.

Mobile signal and facilities: Good signal in Palmizana and near Hvar Town. Weaker on smaller islets. Toilets at Palmizana restaurant only. No medical facilities on the islands — the nearest is in Hvar Town.

Frequently asked questions about the Pakleni Islands

Is there a public ferry to the Pakleni Islands?

No. There are no public ferries to the Pakleni Islands. The only scheduled public transport is the water taxi service from Hvar Town harbour, which runs on demand rather than a fixed timetable. Organised sailing and cruise tours also call in. If you want to reach the islands independently, water taxi is the standard option — it costs around €4-6 per person each way and takes 15-20 minutes.

Can you camp or stay overnight on the Pakleni Islands?

There is no official camping on the Pakleni Islands, and no hotels or guesthouses on most of the islets. Sailboat overnight anchoring is common and permitted in the main anchorages. Some private villas exist on Sveti Klement but these are not generally available for tourist rental. The practical approach for overnight stays is to base in Hvar Town and day-trip to the islands.

What is the best island in the Pakleni group to visit?

Palmizana on Sveti Klement is the easiest and most developed — good swimming, a restaurant, and the botanical garden. For quieter snorkeling, Stipanska is better. For a party atmosphere, Marinkovac with the Carpe Diem Beach club. For a genuinely remote feel, the outer islets are best accessed by private boat. The “best” depends entirely on what you want from the day.

How long should you spend at the Pakleni Islands?

A minimum of 3-4 hours makes the water taxi journey worthwhile. A full day (8-9 hours) with swimming, snorkeling, and lunch at Palmizana is the ideal use of the islands. If you are combining with Hvar Town sightseeing in the same day, a half-day at the islands (morning or afternoon) works well.

Is snorkeling at the Pakleni Islands better than at Zlatni Rat?

Different character. Zlatni Rat on Brač is a better swimming beach — sandier, easier entry, more space. Snorkeling at the Pakleni Islands is generally better in terms of fish life and visibility because the rocky islets provide more habitat and the water depth varies more interestingly. Both are worth visiting for different reasons. See the Brač and Bol guide for what Zlatni Rat actually offers. The which Dalmatian island guide compares them side by side.

Are the Pakleni Islands suitable for children?

Yes, broadly. The water is calm and clear, water taxis are not large boats, and Palmizana has a gentle beach entry. Younger children do better with water shoes given the rocky sections. The main considerations are heat (there is limited shade away from the Palmizana restaurant garden) and the water taxi timings — make sure you know when the last taxi returns before you settle in for the day.

What wildlife can you see while snorkeling here?

Common sightings include sea bream, salpa (an easily identified striped fish), wrasse of various species, and occasional octopus in rocky crevices. In the seagrass beds, look for sea urchins, small crabs, and nudibranchs. Dolphins are occasionally seen crossing between islands — more often from a boat than while snorkeling. Loggerhead sea turtles have been documented in the wider Hvar area but are not frequently encountered near the Pakleni Islands specifically.

When do the Pakleni Islands get too crowded to enjoy?

Mid-July through mid-August is peak crowding at Palmizana specifically — the restaurant fills by early afternoon, the water taxis run with full loads, and the beach and cove feel busy. The smaller islets (Stipanska, Vlaka) remain noticeably quieter throughout the season. Late June and September offer the best balance of warm water, reasonable crowds, and operating infrastructure. April, May, and October are quiet but water temperatures are lower and water taxis less frequent.